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4 reasons why you should play with your cat right now

Cats have a reputation for being low-maintenance, easy-care pets. They don’t need much space, daily walks or access to outdoors (although many cats would like that) or regular baths. Some even contribute to the household with their hunting prowess, should an unlucky mouse appear indoors.

Because cats are easy-to-keep pets, many people assume cats don’t need as much attention as dogs do. But as any cat owner knows, that’s simply not true. Cats benefit from consistent interactive play and activity as much as dogs and people do.

Why your cat needs exercise — disguised as play — too.

Playing with your cat, or interactive play, is a great way to get your kitty moving every day. Especially if they are an indoor-only pet, your cat will benefit both physically and mentally, from kittenhood all the way through their golden years. While kittens and young adult cats tend to spontaneously play and entertain themselves, older and overweight cats may need you to help find their inner kitten.

According to Petcoach.com, cats benefit from consistent, interactive play in many ways:

  • Exercise — Play encourages your cat to be active, helps maintain a healthy body weight and keeps muscles toned and strong. Activities that let your cat express their natural hunting instincts also help keep their mind alert and active.
  • Stress relief — Stress and anxiety are as harmful to our feline friends as they are to us. Stressed cats are more likely to develop behavioral problems, such as aggression, urine spraying or obsessive-compulsive disorders. One of the best ways to counteract kitty stress? Regular playtime with you (and it just may lower your stress level, too).
  • Break from boredom — Cats are naturally curious and need some type of challenge or entertainment every day. If they aren’t entertained or challenged, cats can become bored, lethargic and depressed. Interactive playtime, along with other toys or entertainment while you’re away from home, can help avoid kitty boredom and mischief.
  • Enhance bonding — Playing with your cat is an excellent way to increase the bond that you share with your cat.

How much playtime does your cat need?

Pam Johnson-Bennett, a certified cat behavior consultant and best-selling author, says cats need the consistency of scheduled interactive playtime. She recommends scheduling playtime once or twice daily, with about 15 minutes per session. Other cat health and behavior experts offer similar recommendations, with the total amount of playtime ranging from 20 to 60 minutes daily. Playtime should be split into multiple 10- to 15-minute segments as cats are naturally active in short bursts.

How much time you spend playing with your cat will depend on several factors, including age, weight and the presence of health issues such as arthritis, heart disease or high blood pressure (hypertension).

Kittens or young cats, who tend to be easily amused, will often take the initiative in playing with you and will want to continue playing for a longer period of time. In contrast, older cats may be a bit tougher to get moving. These feline friends may not have the stamina or interest in extended playtimes, so you’ll want to limit playtime to only a couple of minutes two to three times a day when starting out. Depending on how your cat responds, you can gradually increase the amount of time you spend playing together.

How to play with your cat.

Cats need a variety of toys, including those they can play with on their own and those that you use to play with them. You’ll also want to provide items for your cat to explore, such as cardboard boxes, paper shopping bags, packing paper and toys that encourage them to investigate various holes with their paws.

Cats are natural hunters, so it makes sense that the best way to get your cat moving and playing is to stimulate their predatory instincts. Small, motorized, remote-controlled and battery-powered mice are great for capturing your cat’s attention and then getting them to stalk, pounce and chase. Feather toys, which are often attached to the end of a wand or string, are good bird replicas for your feline friend to stalk and even snatch from the air. Yet another favorite is the laser pointer, which can imitate a bug for your cat to hunt and chase. Just be sure to avoid pointing the light directly into your cat’s eyes.

For those times when you’re not home, you’ll want to have toys that your cat can throw around, such as small mice (with or without catnip), or swat, such as crinkle and rattle balls. Interactive toy puzzles that challenge cats to get to treats through different openings can keep your kitty entertained and mentally stimulated.

Remember to introduce new toys, or at least alternate toys, occasionally to keep your cat from becoming bored. And you also need to let them catch the “prey” from time to time. Both of these practices will keep playtime interesting for your kitty.

A quick word about playtime for cats with health issues.

If you have a tubby tabby, introduce exercise gently and gradually to avoid injury. Overweight and obese cats can damage their joints if they do too much too fast. Plus, these cats may not have enough stamina for even 10 minutes of playtime, so start gradually. And hold off on stair running and jumping until your cat has lost some weight.

If your cat has heart disease or high blood pressure, you’ll want to monitor them closely for labored breathing (e.g., panting, shallow breaths) or rapid tiring. If you feel your cat is overdoing it, slow things down or take a short break.

Source: www.diamondpet.com

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Train your cat

Yes! You can train a cat to come on command, use a toilet, and more – and it’s all much easier than you thought.

First things first: Never punish

Cats simply won’t learn from what some owners would consider “discipline.” Worse yet, “punishing” your cat can induce stress, leading to behavioral and health problems—not something you want to deal with in cat training. Remember that patience and positive reinforcement are essential if you’re learning how to train a cat. Trying to figure out your cat’s behavior? Here are 17 things your cat would love to tell you.

Next: Get a clicker—and treats

Commonly used as training tools for a wide variety of animals, a clicker will set you back just a couple bucks and help you give positive reinforcement when you’re learning how to train a cat. (You can also use a regular pen with a clicky button—the important thing is to have a distinct noise you can make instantly.) Most cat training involves offering your cat a treat it likes following a click to mark the desired behavior. These tactics also work when it comes to giving your cat a pill. Without the clicker, your cat may be confused about why it’s being rewarded: If it obeys a command, hears the click, and then gets a treat, it’s more likely to catch on. To keep your cat from scratching you, follow these tips.

How to train a cat to: Come on command

Cats can learn to respond to a vocal cue and run your way. This step of how to train a cat starts by making a distinct noise before feeding—before you open a bag or can—like vocally call your cat, or click your tongue. Your pet will learn to associate that noise with something positive (food) and will eventually head to you when it hears it. Then, encourage this behavior outside of normal feeding times. Start from short distances. Make the noise, use your clicker when your cat comes, and then reward your pet with the treat. Over time, call the cat from longer distances. Recommended up to two “cat training sessions” a day, for five minutes or less, during which you should repeat the behavior up to 20 times.

How to train a cat to: Use a toilet

Training a cat to use the toilet definitely takes some work, but think of the benefits: You’ll save on litter and enjoy a cleaner home. First, place a litter box adjacent to your toilet. Then gradually bring it closer and closer to the top of seat—you might need a stool to make the process easier on the cat. Once your pet is accustomed to using a litter box on top of the toilet, transition to a special litter box that fits within the toilet itself. (Buy flushable litter, and expect spillover.) Gradually use less and less litter to get your cat accustomed to doing its business without it, and then, remove the litter box entirely.

How to train a cat to: Shake hands

This cat training is simpler than you might expect: Get a treat ready, then align yourself to the same level as your cat. Tap your cat’s paw while saying “shake,” and use your clicker when it moves its paw. Repeat training until your cat offers its paw in response to the “shake” command without tapping. Like the “come on command” trick, this can take a few training sessions over the course of a couple of days. Once this skill is mastered, your cat will be well-behaved and ready to star in some internet cat memes.

How to train a cat to: Beg

This is similar to the “shake hands” trick. Hold a treat just above your cat’s headand give a “beg” command. Your pet should stand on its hind legs and reach up for the snack; click to mark the behavior and then give your cat its treat. Practice until your cat begs on command without needing a treat dangled overhead. If you really want to learn how to train a cat well, make sure you always reward your pet—but never feed your cat milk.

How to train a cat to: Walk on a leash

Get a harness with a leash that attaches at the cat’s back, not its neck. The ASPCA recommends that before putting it on you leave it out for a few days in areas where your cat goes, like its feeding area or favorite sleeping spot, so that the animal is accustomed to the sight of it. Next, you’ll transition to draping the harness over the cat (without fully attaching it) when giving it a treat. You’ll eventually move to securing the harness around the cat without the leash—leave it on your cat for a couple of minutes at first, then increase the time over the course of days. Once your pet is comfortable with the harness, attach the leash to it, and let your cat wander freely inside with it. After a few days, start holding the leash during training. Then: Ease into the great outdoors! Make sure you let your cat take its time exploring a new area, and start somewhere quiet. Now that you know how to train your cat properly, make sure you don’t make these common cat owner mistakes.

Source: www.rd.com

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Stop your cat from scratching furniture

Why Having Claws and Scratching is Important to Cats

Claws are a physically, socially, and emotionally vital part of every cat. Scratching, for a cat, is not only a natural act, but a necessary one as well.

  1. It removes the dead outer sheaths of nail, keeping it sharp and ready for action.
  2. It is an essential exercise technique which serves to stretch and strengthen their upper bodies.
  3. Cats mark their territory visually, especially in multi–cat households, as a way of determining rank.
  4. Between your cat’s toes are scent glands which leave her “signature” when she scratches.

How To Keep Your Cat From Scratching Your Home Furniture

The “Yes” Technique            

Appropriate places for your cat to let out his scratching instincts are critical for long term behavioral success. We recommend not only a scratching post, but several, depending on how many areas he likes to scratch on already. For instance if he goes for both arms of the couch, then that’s where you will want your posts at the start.


Cat Furniture: Cat Condos, Scratchers, & Trees

Cat “condos” or “trees” are beneficial in many ways, one of which is to provide a common marking post in multi–cat households. Before you invest a lot of money in buying or building a post, make sure you are catering to your feline friend’s particular preferences. There are inexpensive horizontal cardboard scratchers for carpet–lovers, wedge shaped cardboard ramps for cats who scratch low on furniture, and upright posts or “trees” for cats who like that full–body hang–from–the–claws feeling. The material that the post is made of is also important. Many cats prefer the feel of a sisal rope–wound post, and natural wood is also desirable in that it closely mimics what they’d like to scratch most of all — a tree! A redwood or cedar (softwood) plank or log may be a real hit. Beware of carpet covered furniture, mainly because it’s hard to teach your cat that scratching “this” carpet is okay, but “that” carpet isn’t.

Once the new piece of cat furniture is in your home, rub it with catnip, or dangle your cat’s favorite toy from the top, creating a game which encourages your cat to mimic the motion of scratching. Your lavish praise will also help create a positive association with the act of scratching the cat furniture.

Test Drive the new cat furniture. Remember that in order to fully exercise his upper extremities and get a good stretch, the cat must have enough confidence in the post to put all of his body weight into it. If the post has too small or too insecure a base, it will wobble or tip as he pulls, eroding his confidence in the post and leading him back to that nice solid furniture.

The “No” Technique

We get it. You want your cat to stop scratching apart anything and everything it can get its claws into. So we pulled together a list of some preventative home remedies to help break the cat of the habit of scratching inappropriate objects (your furniture) and keep it that way. The trick is to remove the pleasurable component and replace the action with something not quite so nice.

These home remedies include:

  • Covering up the spot with tin foil
  • Placing a double-sided tape like Sticky Paws on the area. We love this tape because it comes in different sizes and versions designed specifically for furniture or plants
  • Using a non-sticky, clear plastic protector for your cat’s nails like Purrfect Paw
  • Setting up a vinyl carpet runner with the spike side up in front of the spot where they love to scratch

But remember, aversive methods will only work when the cat is provided with an alternate surface that is equally or more desirable.

If you catch the cat in the act of scratching in the undesired spot, even with the aversives in place, correct the cat with a sound; hissing, a quick “ah!” but nothing that she can interpret as punishing sounds associated with your voice. This is why we don’t use the cat’s name during the correction, but only when he performs an action we approve of. His name is only used in conjunction with praise. Especially at first, it’s important to follow the correction with a trip to the post, where the cat has an opportunity to earn praise and again make positive connections with the experience of scratching in the right place. After the correction, carrying the cat over to the right place shouldn’t have a punishing feel to it — don’t scoop the cat off the ground in a sudden motion, or continue after the correction sound with further disapproving tones.

If the cat is having a hard time accepting the post, try daily sessions where you make the sound with your fingers of scratching on the post, accompanied by praise, and an irresistible treat to reward the cat as soon as he performs the desired action. Timing is important! The positives need to be heaped on the cat while he performs the action; a nanosecond later and he’ll have no idea why you are praising him. He’ll like it, but he won’t get the message.

Be patient; incorporating this new behavior into his routine may take a few months without having any “slips”.

How to Trim Your Cat’s Nails

Clipping nails should be done every 2-3 weeks.

Here are some other tips:

Start young: It is easier to start kittens on the right path than to retrain an adult cat, but even older cats can learn to enjoy having their feet handled and to accept nail trimming.

Go slow: Paws are one of the most sensitive parts of a cat’s body. They will often pull away from you and make the job more difficult. If your cat is sensitive, try warming them up to the concept during petting sessions. When the cat is most relaxed, touch one of her paws. Then, gently push on their pads, extending a claw, gently praising the whole time. Respect when she’s had enough, and that’s all for that particular session. A minute or two is a good chunk of time. When your cat is accepting of that feeling, then try clipping. One or two nails per session is fine, at first, getting them used to the sensation while having a positive connection with your praise and gentle touch and perhaps a treat afterward.

Catch ‘em napping: You can often clip a nail or two or three on a sleeping cat with no stress whatsoever. Be gentle and quiet. If he wakes up and pulls away, that’s okay — remember, cats take many naps every day. You’ll have another chance soon! You can also use the same holistic formula that Jackson’s office cat, Mojo, uses, to keep him calmer during nail trims. Stress Stopper can help to reduce any animals’ stress (it’s formulated for all species, not just cats) during short duration disruptions like nail trims, the vacuum cleaner, or house visitors.

Just cut the tips: The sharp end of the nail is the part that can puncture furniture and give leverage to cause damage. In most cats, when the nails are extended you can easily see the clear part and the pink part. All you need to clip is the end of the clear part. When starting out, it is better to err on the side of caution, especially with dark-colored nails where the quick is not obvious. Just one time pressuring, crushing, or cutting the tender part of the claw will cause discomfort or even bleeding, and will seriously set back your efforts at making the clipping process part of your cat’s accepted routine.

Make sure your trimmers are sharp. Dull trimmers will crush and splinter the nail. Blade replacements are available for guillotine (Resco) type trimmers.

If Trimming Your Cat’s Nails is a Challenge Try One of the Below Solutions:

Sticky Paws is sort of like huge, double sided Scotch tape, but the glue is designed to be safe for the furniture. It makes the surface unpleasant for the cat’s feet to touch, and they quickly learn to stay away.

Soft Claws/Soft Paws is a product that has helped many cats who won’t use acceptable scratching outlets. They are basically nail caps that are put on by your veterinarian or groomer at first, but most people can learn to install them themselves. The only drawback to these is that they will get pushed off by new nail growth after several weeks, and need to be replaced, which can become costly if you are not able to clip the claw back and replace the cap yourself. It is, however, a much more humane “last resort” than the following:

Please remember that the commitment to become a cat guardian means working with unwanted behavior to achieve a better relationship and deeper bond with your cat, to make the effort to replace negative habits with positive associations, and ultimately increase your cat’s confidence so she can be a happy and loving companion for life.

The text of this post was written by Jackson and Holistic Veterinarian Dr. Jean Hofve.

Source: www.jacksongalaxy.com

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Help your cat to adjust to a new home

Adjusting to a new home can be a tense and frightening experience for a cat. Your patience and understanding during his initial adjustment period can do a lot to help your new cat feel at home.

The ride home

Riding in a car can be traumatic for cats. Your cat or kitten should be confined to a carrier during the ride home as well as during subsequent trips to the veterinarian. Do not let your new cat loose in a moving car or allow children to excite him. Do not leave the cat unattended in the car or stop to visit friends, shop, etc. Keep your cat in his carrier until you are safely inside your home.

The new home

Consider your companion’s past experiences. Your kitten may have been recently separated from his mother and litter mates. The kitten or cat has had to cope with the transition of a shelter and the stress of surgery. The adult cat may have been separated from a familiar home and forced to break a bond with human companions or other animals. Now he must adjust again to totally new surroundings.

Allow your cat several weeks to adapt. During this period, the cat or kitten should be carefully confined indoors. He needs to get used to you as the provider of love, shelter and food. Be sure that all windows and doors are kept closed and that all screens are secure. A scared cat can easily get out of a high open window.

It’s not uncommon for cats to display behavior problems during the first days in a new home, but these usually disappear over time. New cats and kittens often bolt under furniture. Some may spend hours or even days hiding. Sit and talk quietly to the cat. If you must take the cat out of his hiding place, carry him gently to a quiet protected area where he will feel secure. Be sure food, water and litter box are nearby.

The first day

Introduce your cat to his new home gradually, restricting him to one room at first.

Isolate other animals from your new cat during this time. Supervise children, advising them to always be gentle with the cat. Have the litter box ready when you remove the cat from the carrier. Show him the location of the litter box. Offer a bowl of water but do not provide food for an hour. Your cat may be bewildered, fearful or curious. Do not overwhelm him with attention or demands.

Try to spend several hours with your new cat as he becomes accustomed to your home. Your sensitive handling of the initial transition can ease the trauma and set the stage for a happy settling-in.

Sleeping arrangements

Most cats choose several favorite sleeping spots where they can be comfortable, warm, and free from drafts. Providing a bed for your cat may discourage him from sleeping on furniture. Cats especially love bowl shaped beds such as hanging mats which are used on furniture legs, cat cocoons. Also a cozy box or basket lined with soft, washable bedding and placed in a quiet corner makes a suitable cat bed.

Some cats enjoy continually picking new (and sometimes surprising) sleeping spots. If you allow your cat to sleep on furniture, a washable cover can be placed over favorite spots. A cat’s sleeping spot should be respected as his own. Don’t allow children to disturb your cat when he is resting. Cats need solitude and quiet time.

Introduction to other animals

The ability of animals to get along together in the same household depends on their individual personalities. There will always be one who dominates. A new cat will often upset the existing pecking order or the old cat or dog may feel it necessary to establish dominance immediately. Wise handling of the “getting acquainted” period is an important factor in the successful introduction of a new cat. The first week or two may be hectic, frustrating and time consuming. Be patient. The adjustment will take time.

New cat to resident dog

Keep your dog confined until the cat feels secure in his new home. Introduce them indoors with the dog under control on a leash. Do not allow the dog to chase or corner the cat, even out of playfulness or curiosity. Supervise them carefully and don’t tolerate any aggressive behavior from your dog. The cat should have a safe retreat, either up high or in a room inaccessible to the dog.

An adult cat may swat a dog to set limits. Allow your animals to accept one another in their own time and don’t leave them alone together until this is accomplished. Never force interaction. Many cats and dogs become companions and playmates while others simply tolerate each other. Be sure to give your dog lots of extra attention to avoid jealous reactions.

New cat to resident cat

Spayed or neutered cats are generally more accepting of other cats. Adult cats are generally more accepting of kittens than of other adults. Two altered adult cats often become friends in the same home. Read more about introducing your new cat to your resident cat.

New cat to other resident animals

Birds, rodents, and fish should be adequately protected from possible harassment by the new cat. These animals are the natural prey of cats and may be subjected to stress merely by the presence of a cat. Cats and rabbits generally live harmoniously together, with the rabbit often assuming a dominant role. However, watch early interactions closely in case your cat should manifest a prey reaction and never leave them unsupervised together until their relationship is clearly friendly.

Source: www.paws.org